This couture collection, designed by Chanel’s in-house Creation Studio for the final time ahead of Matthieu Blazy’s debut in October, celebrates nature and wide-open spaces. With inspiration drawn from the English countryside and Scottish moorlands, forty-six looks explored winter classics in ecru, brown, ivory, green and black. Menswear silhouettes, ever present in Chanel’s design vocabulary, offered ease and movement.
In the newly restored Salon d’Honneur at the Grand Palais, the house recreated its original Haute Couture salons at 31, rue Cambon. Designed by renowned French-Canadian creative director Willo Perron, the set featured cream carpeting, quilted seating, mirrored walls and a single wheat stalk on each chair, creating a sense of intimacy. Now elevated into grandeur with an editorial and celebrity audience.
Chanel haute couture AW2025, courtesy of Chanel
The mood carried through the clothes. Tweed suits were boxier, worn with fluid fishtail skirts. White coatdresses in knitted tweed, jumper-style jackets and mohair suits in green and plum brought softness and structure. Bouclé fabrics suggested sheepskin, while feathers and tweed created illusions of fur. Gabrielle Chanel’s vision of a liberating, straight line without corsets or padding was ever present.
Wheat ears, long associated with abundance and luck at the house, featured in chiffon flounces, jewelled buttons and as delicate embroidery along the wedding dress neckline. Chevron motifs and floral threads added a lightness to coats and dresses. According to Bruno Pavlovsky, president of fashion at Chanel, Matthieu Blazy’s influence is already taking form.
It’s a countryside bohemian with restraint. My personal highlights? The serene white and silver dresses worn with knee-high, or even taller, chunky leather boots, and the long dark cape trimmed with a light white collar. I can already picture this in an editorial shoot.
Chanel haute couture AW2025, courtesy of Chanel
Naturally, the bride closed the show. A floor-length gown adorned with sequins and wheat detailing. Her veil, draped like a 1920s headpiece, brought vintage romance. No bouquet, just a small bundle of wheat. A final gesture, and a soft signal of what’s to come.
To mark the house’s 110th anniversary, a gold-covered edition of Chanel Haute Couture, edited by Sofia Coppola, was released. A cinematic homage.
Images courtesy of Chanel.
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