Amsterdam Fashion Week runs like a route through the city. From a sunny park to a museum garden and the rooftop of a church, fashion meets daily life at close range. The line-up moves from independent designers to heritage houses and graduate talent, reflecting the wide scope.
Camiel Fortgens show
Camiel Fortgens – fashion among the passers-by
Amsterdam-based designer Camiel Fortgens, already well known in Japan, presents his first show in the Netherlands. The setting is the small Bilderdijkpark. Guests sit on the grass, others on park benches or standing nearby in late-summer sun, while models appear without warning. Some carry portable speakers, layering sound as they move. Others arrive with dogs, some in pairs or with their family, others solo with wired earphones. At first the audience does not realise that the show has already started.
Looks move between womenswear, menswear and kidswear, styled with boots, loafers, socks and sneakers. Alongside the finished garments and silhouettes with unfinished edges, Fortgens presents research pieces left raw to reveal process. Streetcast models underline his design philosophy of keeping clothes close to daily life, blending naturally into the sunny park setting.
Yume Yume show
Yume Yume – from shoes to full bloom
In the garden of the Willet Holthuysen Museum, Yume Yume presents its first full ready-to-wear collection. Flora Fantasia expands the brand’s language beyond footwear into clothing, eyewear and accessories. Models walk the manicured paths in oversized gloves, floral headpieces, boots and shoes that echo the sculptural approach of the brand. The collection also shows modernised Y2K silhouettes, from padded jackets and scuba bodysuits to skirts in varying lengths. Colours punctuate the show in bright green, dusty pink and deep purple, while petal-shaped hats turn faces into blossoms.
Footwear remains central. Roomy Boots appear in sheep wool with stiletto heels, sandals balance on heart-shaped bases and trainers carry floral prints. The museum garden amplifies the surreal atmosphere, with birdsong and rustling leaves mixing with the soundtrack. The debut feels playful and ambitious, showing that Yume Yume is ready to move beyond its footwear roots.
Filling Pieces presentation on the rooftop De Nieuwe Kerk
Filling Pieces – on the rooftop
After climbing more than ten flights, the selected audience arrives on the rooftop of the Nieuwe Kerk. The cloudless view stretches across the city and for me it adds a sense of vertigo. Guillaume Philibert welcomes every guest. There is no catwalk this season. His new United by Rhythm collection is shown on mannequins, while musician Bnnyhunna performs live. The designs focus on layered streetwear with clean tailoring and sportswear influences, continuing the brand’s aim to connect fashion with culture.
11PM show
11PM – Belgian newcomer
Belgian label 11PM, founded by Marie Martens and Pieter-Jan Verbruggen, makes its AFW debut with a collection that rethinks uniforms through tailoring and improvisation. One of the most surprising moments comes when a model lifts his violin and plays live, bringing music directly into the show. The womenswear stands out for its layering: transparent mesh in bright colours peeks out under hems of skirts or is used as a double sleeve, giving a sharp and stylish effect. Oversized denim jackets appear as dresses styled with matching bags, while cropped knits for men add a playful note. The debut confirms 11PM as a label to watch in the seasons ahead.
Natan, SS26, photography Peter Stigter, courtesy of Natan
Natan – a cinematic finale
On the closing day Natan presents its collection in a serene, light-filled space with white couches and very high ceilings. The collection takes inspiration from Alfonso Cuarón’s film Great Expectations. A model in lemon yellow opens the show in a relaxed silhouette, followed by pale pink, burgundy red, midnight blue, forest green and icy blue. Rich fabrics include soft silks, crepes and shiny jacquards. As the music builds, sequinned gowns with thigh-high slits appear. The finale is black: a blazer over the shoulders and a sweeping skirt in crisp fabric. It sums up Natan’s focus on refinement and proportion.
Youngjin Choe with his collection Duality of Light
Lichting25 – new voices
Lichting, the annual platform for Dutch graduates, brings together ten designers to show their final collections. It remains one of the highlights, giving a clear view of the next generation. This year’s winner is Youngjin Choe with Duality of Light. The collection balances strength with delicacy, impressing both jury and audience. Lichting continues to connect AFW with fresh ideas and keeps new talent at the centre of Dutch fashion.
Bibi van der Velden new flagship store in Amsterdam
Beyond the runway
AFW also functions as a stage for fashion talks, new launches and store openings. Jewellery designer Bibi van der Velden opens a new flagship store, adding to the wider cultural programme. In other venues the focus is on sustainable fashion, modern collaborations and Q&As with creatives. These events show how AFW extends beyond the runway into conversation and exchange.
Runway show Natan, photography Peter Stigter for Natan, all other images courtesy of all designers, shot by author
Discover: www.amsterdamfashionweek.nl
