The spring/summer 2026 story begins in the Camargue region of France, where white horses still roam the plains and small ateliers continue a legacy of craftsmanship passed from mother to daughter. In this land of French bohemians, free-spirited souls and riders, leather, ropes and halters are part of daily life. The sun-bleached landscape reflects both freedom and precision, a balance that defines the Hermès spirit. These crafts, from hand-stitched seams to burnished edges and saddlery, are at the heart of the house.
Runway images by Filippo Fior, atmosphere images by Johnny Dufort, courtesy of Hermès
Nadège Vanhée’s starting point is this natural region and its spirit of freedom. The wild nature, the horses, the flamingos and bulls, it all translates into a sensual, tactile collection titled Free Rein, taking the equestrian heart of Hermès. You can sense it in the stitching, in structured fabrics printed to mimic armour, and in supple leather shaped like a modern harness. Every detail nods to the original halter of the horse, now reimagined.
At first glance, the silhouettes are serene: long, narrow, pure in line. But look closer, and the tension reveals itself, hard meeting soft, protection meeting skin. Cropped bustiers folded with silk scarves, micro shorts, slim belts. Even the salopettes feel poetic, their metal loops once made for tools now holding slender Hermès scarves, a wink to craft transformed into beauty. For the first time, in my view, the collection feels more sensual than ever. Soft leathers cut into bustiers, some threaded with silk shawls, others revealing more skin than usual. High-waisted stretchy trousers layered under shorts, a modern play on proportion. A waxed leather coat with saddle-inspired detailing, special stitching tracing the sides. There’s even a design from the Camargue itself, in silk, padded and stitched, a soft armour for modern times.
I watched the show via livestream, and the next day at the re-see I could finally touch everything up close, the leathers, the craftsmanship, the construction. Models moved around the space in these confident looks. The new Hermès shade, blue noir, a deep, inky tone found only in ready-to-wear, stood out to me, mysterious, future-classic.
Pierre Hardy, as ever, brings poetry to form with his minimalistic jewellery. Clémande Burgevin Blachman, Creative Director of fashion accessories, presents sculptural stilettos and beautifully crafted clutches with scales reminiscent of fish skin, both exquisite and precise. And the new beauty collection? Divine.
Hermès accessories and details of the womenswear collection
Beyond the runway, Hermès continues to build its universe: a bespoke vinyl player table, fully custom-made and available in any colour, yoga with Hermès, and my favourite discovery, a compact connected speaker wrapped in Hunter cowhide. Sleek, curvy, and made with the same devotion to materials as a Kelly bag, technology meeting tactility.
The new collections express a calm kind of strength. Layers of silk and smooth leather move with the body, forming a second skin rather than armour. The woman of Hermès this season feels composed, her confidence resting in detail: a scarf folded through a cropped bustier, a fine belt tracing the waist, the gentle sheen of leather catching the light. The palette shifts between warmth and depth, from bright reds and beige browns to the new blue noir, a tone both elegant and enigmatic. Miniature round bags and precise tailoring elongate the silhouette, while micro shorts and salopettes with subtle workwear touches, a metal eyelet now holding a silk scarf, connect craft with ease. Under Nadège Vanhée’s hand, freedom truly becomes the new luxury.
Catwalk images by Filippo Fior, atmosphere by Johnny Dufort, backstage images by Virgile Guinard; other images by author, all courtesy of Hermès
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