Paris Fashion Week carried a distinctly Belgian note this season. For the first time, Façon Jacmin joined the official calendar, presenting The Morning After inside the grand hall of the Wallonie-Bruxelles Délégation. At Printemps Haussmann, I had seen Façon Jacmin pieces from the current collection, such as cotton-and-denim bomber jackets, deconstructed blouses and more sporty bomber styles, just before their SS26 show.
The presentation unfolded as a three-act performance built around one simple theme: the day after a great night out. A slow, domestic rhythm replaced the pulse of the party, a mix of tidying up, lingering music, and a late breakfast of pain au chocolat and sparkling water to clear the mind. Hair and make-up were a little messy but still chic. Some models wore Antwerp-based eyewear label Komono, a good way to hide tired eyes. One model moved through the space with a table fastened around her neck, plates, pastries and water still balanced on top. Another wore a coat with many pockets, each filled with sparkling Perrier bottles, which he served to the audience. Diverse models drifted through the mirrored room, embodying that mix of fatigue and freedom.
Model images solo, courtesy of Façon Jacmin
Façon Jacmin described the collection as an exploration of disarray. Rooted in the brand’s Belgian design DNA, tender pastels met vibrant tones, evoking the blurred vision after a fun, sleepless night. The looks, spanning both menswear and womenswear, echoed the gestures of dressing in haste: a double T-shirt turned into a dress, hybrid separates creating a day-after mood. Silk slip dresses and asymmetric satin tops paired with reimagined pencil skirts, mixed with streetwear elements such as denim coats and sportswear-inspired silhouettes, all a nod to imperfection and that familiar feeling that lingers after the party ends.
Guests stood close, phones raised, photographing as everything happened in real time. It felt more like a living tableau than a runway show, a fashion performance that breathed.
The idea connected naturally to the mood of the moment. Natasha Zinko’s Hair of the Dog in London carried a similar after-party spirit. Perhaps designers are drawn to that in-between state when the lights come up and what remains is human, imperfect and tender.
Founded by twin sisters Alexandra and Ségolène Jacmin, the Antwerp-based label remains rooted in denim but moves easily between tailoring and streetwear. Sustainability and upcycling define their practice, shaping a wardrobe that feels effortless, clever and distinctly Belgian.
Images courtesy of Façon Jacmin, atmosphere images taken by author, Paris Fashion Week SS26.
www.faconjacmin.com
