Design, Diaspora and Global Success. Neo-Chinese designers are redefining what it means to bring heritage into fashion today. Their work reinterprets cultural traditions for a global stage, blending memory with modern form. Educated in global capitals and anchored in their roots, they speak fluently to an international audience. Their collections show how heritage can be a jumpstart for contemporary design, transforming tradition into modern form.
Robert Wun Couture collection AW25, courtesy of Robert Wun’s instagram
Robert Wun – couture as sculpture
His debut on the official Paris Haute Couture calendar in 2023 was historic: never before had a Hong Kong designer presented under his own name. Trained at the London College of Fashion and supported by Chanel’s Bruno Pavlovsky, Wun combines monumental volumes with an unexpected sense of wearability, a rare balance in couture. Beyoncé and Lady Gaga have already appeared in his creations. His Autumn/Winter 2025 collection shifts the focus towards the play between volume and silhouette, with subtle nods to Eastern ideas of harmony. His couture achieves silhouettes that are both sculptural and wearable
Uma Wang, collection AW25, photography Valerio Mezzanotti, courtesy of Uma Wang
Uma Wang – understated luxury
Since 2009 Uma Wang has been showing in Milan. Flowing silhouettes recall the movements of classical Chinese ink painting: layered and spacious. Light and dark recur throughout her work in silk and cashmere. Trained in Shanghai, Beijing and London, Wang is seen as a pioneer of Chinese fashion on the world stage. Her Autumn/Winter 2025 collection highlights this cultural exchange. One of my favourites is a pair of high-gloss patent leather lace-up shoes with a square front, echoing the footwear of the terracotta army. In the Netherlands, her label can be found at store\atelier Devastator in Rotterdam.
A dress by Susan Fang, seen in Wereldmuseum, photography Im Fong Liu, courtesy of Susan Fang and WereldMuseum
Susan Fang – fashion flow
Her signature “Air Flower” technique builds weightless layers that unfold into three-dimensional blooms. Since 2017 Fang has been showing at London Fashion Week, with collaborations for UGG, Zara and & Other Stories expanding her global reach. Her recent collection explores transparency, architectural form and sculptural play. The result is dreamlike wearable poetry that subtly echoes Chinese aesthetics. Her work was also featured in the exhibition Made in China at Wereldmuseum Rotterdam.
Ziggy Chen, collection AW25, courtesy of Ziggy Chen and Devastator Rotterdam
Ziggy Chen – textile time capsules
For this Shanghai-based designer, fashion begins with fabric. His pieces for both men and women carry the traces of time: washed surfaces, weathered textures, muted tones. It is as if the garments themselves have lived many other lives. Chen launched his label in 2012 after a career teaching textile design. His designs connect Chinese forms with European tailoring, offering a distinct perspective. In the Netherlands, his collections can also be found at store\atelier Devastator in Rotterdam.
Simone Rocha, collection AW25, photography Ben Broomfield, courtesy of Simone Rocha
Simone Rocha – rebel romantic
Pearls with tough boots, tulle with robust wool: Simone Rocha is known for her use of contrasts. She established her name in womenswear and recently expanded into menswear, bringing a sharp modern edge to romance. Simone Rocha grew up with fashion as a daily presence. Her father is Chinese designer John Rocha, her mother Irish. She studied in Dublin and at Central Saint Martins. Tang dynasty motifs and the Qingming festival have both appeared in her collections, now stocked at Dover Street Market. Chloë Sevigny and Sarah Jessica Parker, as Carrie Bradshaw in And Just Like That, have worn her dresses. In January 2024 she was invited as guest designer at Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture in Paris, cementing her place on the international stage.
Next chapter
Fashion’s global value now stands at €1.7 trillion, according to recent industry reports (Uniform Market, 2025). The success of Neo-Chinese designers circulates on platforms like Farfetch, SSENSE and MyTheresa, reaching audiences far beyond Asia. These designers also build visibility through their own channels and social media, nurturing new communities worldwide. Cultural diversity and commercial strength define the fashion, style and cultures of the future.
All images copyright to the respective brands. With thanks to all designers, WereldMuseum, Devastator and photographers Ben Broomfield and Valerio Mezzanotti
This article is also published in Dutch on https://www.vnc-china.nl/china-nu-plus
More information:
Robert Wun – www.robertwun.com
Simone Rocha – www.simonerocha.com, also via www.net-a-porter.com
Susan Fang – www.susanfangofficial.com, www.farfetch.com
Uma Wang – www.umawang.com, also via www.farfetch.com, in the Netherlands via www.devastator.nl
Ziggy Chen – www.ziggychen.com, in the Netherlands via www.devastator.nl
